AMRITSAR. October 18th

Amritsar (Golden Temple). On my way to the Temple I buy a head covering (compulsory) for 10 rupees. These are only available in white or orange, and I go for the more colourful one. Arrive at the Temple precincts, where first you have to hand in your shoes in a large hall with many shoe handing-in windows. Then you have to hand in your day-pack at a separate building. Before entering the Temple grounds proper I go to where LP advises that you can get share-jeep tickets to the late afternoon border closing ceremony at Attari. These cost 75 rupees, 25 down, and 50 later. I'm given a receipt with the rego number of the jeep on it, and shown where the jeep is parked, and told to come back at 3.15. Get zapped etc by police on the way in to the Temple grounds. The Temple itself, glowing in the early afternoon sun, is truly breathtaking. I walked around the perimeter of the lake surrounding it, but didn't get out along the causeway to see inside the Temple, as there was a queue right along it about six-deep that didn't appear to be moving at all, and I estimated it would take close to 3 hours to get to the top of the queue. Retrieve my belongings, and wander down to the jeep real early, and sit in the shade and eat some chocolate, as my tum is playing up a bit, and it's the only thing I fancy.